Physical Environment of the West Coast Coastal Marine Area
2.4 Characterising the Marine and Coastal Environment
Over the years several science-based classification systems have attempted
amongst other things, to spatially classify the different estuarine, coastal
and marine environments of the West Coast45. In
the absence of a finalised national marine classification being developed
for use with the Marine Protected Areas: Policy and Implementation Plan
(MPA Policy)46, this section characterises different
domains within the West Coast marine and coastal environment according to
several important physical factors. The West Coast Marine Protection Forum
can consider the physical patterns and processes explained above, and the
characterisation based on depth, substrate and exposure outlined below,
but will be guided mostly by the national classification under the MPA Policy
when it is released.
Recent work relating to the MPA Policy by DOC and MFish officials on behalf
of Ministers47 indicates that there are three important
physical elements which help in describing and mapping the country’s
marine habitat diversity. They are:
- depth;
- substrate; and
- exposure (or energy).
Accordingly, information on the West Coast’s marine and coastal environment
is presented below in terms of depth, substrate and exposure. However, it
is emphasised that the way this has been applied does not necessarily relate
to the number of ecosystems, habitats, or areas the Forum will recommend for
protection.
In the West Coast coastal marine area, water depths obviously range from shallow
at tidal limits on open coasts and at river mouths, out to much greater depths
across the continental slope and submarine canyons offshore. Substrates can
vary according to their texture, geology and shape. The degree of exposure
to energy sources such as waves, tides, and currents can have an important
bearing on the character of a coastal area. Depth, substrate and exposure
are to some extent interrelated and in combination they can lead to the formation
of a variety of landforms, ecosystems, and habitats.
2.4.1 Depth
Depth has an important influence on the character and biology of the marine
environment and the depth zonation of shores has been a key concept in marine
science for a long time. The physical and biological changes are very obvious
as one goes from the terrestrial and freshwater margins of the marine environment
out to the ocean depths.
The coastal marine area of the West Coast covers a wide range of depths from
shallow terrestrial and freshwater environments to ocean floors at over 2000
metres depth. The following list describes the different depth zones, with
a brief definition of what each term means. They are illustrated in Figure
2.10.

Figure 2.10
A schematic diagram of depth zones of the West Coast, based on a profile off the Karangarua River mouth.
- Terrestrial and inland areas are all those areas above the limits of the coastal marine area, and include a variety of coastal hillslopes, dunes, river catchments and wetlands.
- The intertidal zone forms the transition between dry land and the sea. On the open coast, this includes beaches and rocky shores; in enclosed coastal wetlands (the ‘estuarine environmental domain’), it can include tidal flat estuaries and the margins of tidal lagoons and river mouths.
- The shallow subtidal zone (to about 30 metres depth) represents the water depth to which sunlight can easily penetrate; it is also the zone most affected by wave action and surface mixing.
- The deep nearshore zone extends from about 30 metres depth to the 12 nautical mile limit, and mostly comprises the bed and waters of the continental shelf (to about 200 metres depth), and some deeper areas of continental slope and submarine canyons lying within territorial waters.
- The offshore environment lies beyond the 12 mile limit, and is not a direct consideration of the West Coast Marine Protection Forum.
The term ‘substrate’ refers to the surface of the seabed or land. Substrate also influences the marine biology of an area: that is, different species can often be found to live on different substrates. One of the most obvious substrate contrasts is that seen between ‘hard’ rocky shores and ‘soft’ sandy beaches. Hard substrates usually comprise:
- bedrock substrates, that are formed from the massive underlying rock formation, and
- boulder substrates, that are formed from large individual rocks (larger than 256 mm diameter) which are not readily moved by wave and current action.
Soft substrates are those that are more readily moved by the action of waves and currents near the coast and at most continental shelf depths. They include (from largest to smallest size range)
- cobble, particles from 16 to 256 mm diameter, such as the platy stones that are found on many West Coast beaches.
- gravel, comprising particles of 4-16 mm diameter in size.
- sand, comprising particles from 2-4 mm diameter in size.
- silt and mud, comprising the finest range of sediments.
Substrate types can vary widely according to:
- texture (size range) and mobility of their constituent parts;
- form (e.g., smooth or rough surfaces at a range of scales);
- geological composition (e.g. limestone or granite); or
- sedimentation dynamics (erosion, transport and abrasion patterns); and
- complexity (e.g. a patchy rock reef within a sandy bay).
2.4.3 Exposure
‘Exposure’ refers to the levels of energy that a site is subjected to by natural processes. Exposure (or energy) tends to have a more subtle effect on the biology of an area than depth and substrate. While the exposure of a site is usually considered in relation to waves, the exposure or energy levels might also be influenced by other features, such as currents, tides, winds, gravity and infrequent catastrophic events (e.g. flood, storm surge, or submarine landslide). A convenient way to consider the relative exposure of different sites is by dividing them into
- Exposed
- Moderately exposed, and
- Sheltered
The exposure of a substrate to wave energy tends to be greatest on intertidal
marine shores, diminishing both landwards (onto the land and up rivers) and
seawards (into greater depths). A clear example of these variations in exposure
is given by contrasting an estuarine sand flat with an intertidal sandy beach.
While both may be at the same elevation and of the same sediment type, the
greater exposure to waves in the beach system makes it (among other things)
steeper and more mobile than the estuarine flat.
Other Factors
Other physical factors can also affect the character of the coastal and marine
environment. Two factors that have received particular attention in the scientific
literature of the West Coast48 are salinity and the
ways that the coastal and ocean currents affect the coastal marine area.
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| Exposed Paparoa Coastline Photo: D. Neale, DOC |
Sheltered coastline, Jackson Bay/Okahu Photo: N. Shears, Auckland University |
45 e.g. King et al 1985, McEwen 1987, Francis 1996, Neale & Nelson 1998, DOC 2004, Roberts et al 2005, Walls 2006a, b
46 DOC & MFish 2005
47 Walls 2006a
48 e.g. Heath & Ridgway 1985, Moore & Murdoch 1993, Heath 1982, Stanton 1976

