Physical Environment of the West Coast Coastal Marine Area
2.5 Ecosystems Based on Depth, Substrate and Exposure
2.5.1 Spatial Distribution of Ecosystems Based on Depth, Substrate
and Exposure
The primary drivers of depth, substrate, and exposure/energy (outlined in
section 2.4 above) can be used to give a ‘three-dimensional’
picture of the physical nature of the West Coast marine and coastal environment,
and thence the distribution of the main ecosystems. Figure 2.11 is a ‘two-dimensional’
attempt to show the widely varying spatial distribution of the main ecosystems
along the depth and exposure axes, with the substrate dimension embodied
partly in the size of the circles and partly in the ‘substrate descriptor’
for each ecosystem name (e.g. ‘sand and silt’ or ‘bedrock’).
Figure 2.11
Distribution of common examples of coastal and marine ecosystems on the West Coast, according to their depth, exposure/energy and substrate. Note: positions and sizes of each circle are indicative only.
It is important to note that the ecosystem types shown as named circles
in the figure are simply illustrative of common examples that occur on the
West Coast. They are not intended to be a comprehensive classification of
the coastal marine area. In reality, while there are sometimes sharp physical
boundary changes, there is more often just a gradual transition. For example,
the intertidal depth zone steadily deepens out to the shallow subtidal and
beyond, or some tidal lagoons flow out through river mouths to a sand or
gravel beach.
2.5.2 Four Marine and Coastal Environmental Domains
The spatial distribution of the main ecosystems in Figure 2.11 admittedly
looks complex. So to simplify the discussion to follow in Chapter 3 of the
biological character of the West Coast’s marine ecosystems and habitats,
the physical environment has been split into four broad ‘environmental
domains’ (see Figure 2.12 and definition in box).
Environmental domains are areas with similar physical environmental conditions
(as defined by factors including solar radiation, temperature, moisture
and geological substrate) that have been demonstrated to have high correlations
with plant and animal distributions.
These four environmental domains in the West Coast coastal marine area are
the:
- Estuarine domain;
- Intertidal (open coast) domain ;
- Shallow subtidal (open coast) domain; and the
- Deep nearshore domain.
The boundary of one of these domains, the ‘estuarine environmental domain’, is outlined in Figure 2.11.

Figure 2.12:
Environmental domains of the West Coast coastal marine area
The names of the last three of the environmental domains listed above are
related to the relevant depth zones (in section 2.4.1 above). One of the clearest
physical divisions in the West Coast coastal marine area is between the ‘estuarine’
environments and the more ‘marine’ environment. In terms of their
depth, the estuarine ecosystems shown in Figure 2.11 are mostly intertidal
(but also include some shallow subtidal areas). However, they differ markedly
from the open coast because they generally have a much lower level of exposure,
and finer sediments. Compared to the intertidal beaches and rocky shores of
the open coast, the estuarine environmental domain has lower salinity water,
and riverine processes that are less affected by the influence of sea waves
and coastal currents.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
| A tidal Flat estuary (Three Mile Lagoon) Photo: T. Hume, NIWA |
A tidal lagoon (Totara Lagoon) Photo: D. Neale, DOC |
A river mouth (Whataroa River) Photo: T. Hume, NIWA |
Estuarine Domain
The West Coast has many enclosed estuaries and river mouths that connect with
the sea through narrow entrances across barrier beaches. Intertidal mud and
sand flats are prominent features of these areas, with permanent tidal channels
that extend below the intertidal zone. Estuarine environments on the West
Coast include broad tidal flat estuaries (e.g. Three Mile Lagoon), tidal lagoons
(e.g. Totara Lagoon) and gravelly river mouths (e.g. Whataroa and Grey/Mawheranui
Rivers). These are discussed in more detail in Chapter 3.
Intertidal (Open Coast) and Shallow Subtidal (Open Coast) Domains
The intertidal (open coast) domain extends from the MHWS line down to MLWS,
and the shallow subtidal (open coast) domain reaches from MLWS out to about
30 metres depth. While the intertidal (open coast) domain can be quite different
to the shallow subtidal (open coast) domain, the two are combined for the
purposes of this section of the report. These two domains are areas where
sharp physical changes occur across relatively short distances at a scale
of metres or less. The effects of tides, currents and wave action are felt
on the shore and seabed from the highest levels of the tide to depths of several
tens of metres, and they dominate the physical dynamics of these domains.
Breaking waves impart high levels of energy on the intertidal shore, reducing
to lower levels with increasing water depth. The regular flood and ebb of
the tide affects the environmental conditions and helps to determine the physical
and biological patterns that are discussed in more detail in Chapter 3.
![]() |
A typical rocky shore with reefs, off the Paparoa range coastline. Seal Island in the foreground. Photo: D. Neale, DOC. |
Because the West Coast faces generally towards the prevailing westerly winds
and waves, most of the intertidal (open coast) and shallow subtidal (open
coast) domains are very exposed to the waves and sea conditions of the open
coast. The frequent sea storms and abundant supply of gravel from the rivers
cause the West Coast’s ‘open coast’ shores to be heavily
battered by waves and affected by sand and gravel scour.
Consequently, only a few areas on the West Coast shoreline are relatively
less exposed to the direct impact of wave action and/or currents. These include
sheltered bays and rocky shores with deep water immediately offshore (such
as around headlands and islands). The lower energy conditions occurring in
such places make them less affected by turbulence and sand scour.
![]() |
![]() |
|
| Shallow subtidal reed near Cape Foulwind. Photo: DOC Collection |
A smal typical island with reefs and stacks. Wall Island off Tauranga Bay, near Cape Foulwind. Photo: DOC. |
The substrate at any particular place in these shallow marine domains is a
distinguishing feature of the location’s physical nature. Relatively
immobile hard rocky substrates (e.g. bedrock and boulders) contrast sharply
with the mobile soft sediments (e.g. cobbles, gravel and sand). A combination
of these sediment types often occurs at any particular site, but one or a
few types are usually dominant The following discussion looks at the physical
character (particularly substrates) of the two main types of open coast: rocky
coasts and beaches.
a) Intertidal and Subtidal Rocky Substrates
Rocky shores and reefs are formed along the West Coast where mountain ranges
approach the coastline. Examples are: the Kahurangi National Park mountains,
Karamea Bluffs, Paparoa Range, Paringa-Moeraki coastal ranges, and Cascade-Awarua
hill country. The geology, form and character of these rocky shores are quite
varied, and they range in age from the Precambrian gneiss at Charleston to
the Quaternary moraine deposits of central Westland and the Cascade Bluffs49.
The substrates of rocky coasts are mostly of bedrock and boulders and the
type of rock can have an influence on the physical form and stability of the
shoreline. Bedrock coasts are generally the most physically stable type of
coastline. However, they can vary according to the geology of the rock, from
resilient and steep granite coasts to more erodable sandstone and mudstone
coasts. Bouldery coasts are less static, for the boulders can sometimes move
under heavy wave action.
Only a few islands occur off the West Coast, but small rock stacks are a landscape
feature in some areas. The largest and most biologically significant islands
of the West Coast are the kilometre-long Open Bay Islands (Taumaka and Popotai),
located some four kilometres off Haast50 (see Chapters
3 and 5 for a fuller account of islands and stacks).
(b) Intertidal and Subtidal Soft Substrates Uplift of the mountainous
hinterland east of the alpine fault, coupled with the region’s high
rainfall, has led to constant and on-going erosion of the land. It has been
estimated that anywhere from 68 to 127 million tonnes of sediment is carried
down the West Coast’s rivers and glaciers to the sea every year51,
giving this region one of the greatest terrestrial erosion rates in the world.
Most of this sediment is sorted into two main locations:
- deep beds of fine sand and mud clothing the seafloor on the continental shelf; and
- sand/gravel beaches that fill embayments or enclose tidal lagoons and estuaries along much of the coast.
The longshore drift of sediments on West Coast beaches is mostly caused by wave action (which prevails from the southwest) which typically yield high volumes of sediment northwards, with net rates for most beaches probably in the range of 0.1 to 1 million cubic metres per year52.
![]() |
![]() |
|
| A steep cobble beach, Ngaskawau Photo: T. Hume, NIWA |
A gently-shelving sandu beach, Kohaihai. Photo: T. Hume, NIWA |
West Coast beaches vary greatly in their physical composition, character and
functioning. From a ‘bird’s eye view’, their forms are largely
determined by the presence or absence of rocky headlands and major rivers.
‘Pocket’ beaches, such as those nestled between headlands on the
Kahurangi, Paparoa and Paringa coasts, contrast sharply with the long beaches
found where broad river plains meet the sea (such as those in the Karamea,
Foulwind, Greymouth-Bruce Bay, and Haast localities).
When viewed in profile (horizontally), beach forms are predominantly a result
of the shape and size range of their sediments. Consequently, there is a wide
range of profiles, ranging from the gently shelving sand beaches of the Karamea
and Cape Foulwind plains to the steep cobble beaches near Granity, Barrytown
and Greymouth. Along considerable lengths of the West Coast, especially in
areas between about Paparoa and Jackson Head, the beaches are not dominated
by a single sediment size class, but are instead composed of a mixture of
sand, gravel and cobbles.
Despite the prevalence of strong onshore winds, West Coast sand dunes are
mostly low in height due to the coarse, heavy and moist nature of the beach
sediments, which are unable to be moved far inland by the wind.
![]() |
A mixed sand and gravel beach, Gillespie Beach. Photo: T. Hume, NIWA |
49 Thornton 1985
50 e.g. see Neale (2006e)
51 Griffiths & Glasby 1985
52 Benn & Neale 1992










